BOOT&GO Instructions

(How to use the BOOT&GO drive you just bought from us.)

WELCOME to the cool new development in the world of V1DA laptops… BOOT&GO!

Just plug the SSD drive into the USB port of your laptop and boot from that!

When you turn on the laptop, hit F2, or F10, or the “blue Thinkpad button” or whatever your particular laptop uses to get into the BIOS (if not sure, google it.) Inside the BIOS you’re looking for just a couple things: 

1. Set the “Boot order” so that USB HDD (or USB device, or the like) boots first… before the internal HDD. (It will only do this when a usb is detect with bootable files, otherwise it will use the standard internal hard drive.)

2. Turn off “secure boot” (if enabled)

3. UEFI or not? …. You might have to turn off (or on in some cases) “legacy” compatibility or legacy boot (if disabled.) 
If you have troubles, play with the settings. Try again. Or google “your model + how to boot from external drive.”
That’s it. Once these are set, if you unplug the SSD from the USB and turn on the computer, it will still load up the internal HDD, and you don’t have to go into the BIOS again. In fact, it will only load off the USB port if there’s a device with bootable files on it (like this SSD has.)

Insert it into a USB slot (2.0 or 3.0, both work), let it boot Win10 from there, and you’re off. NOTE: LEAVE IT PLUGGED IN WHILE USING IT. (Seems obvious, but I should mention that.)

The first time its used, and boots up, it’ll install drivers, and adjust settings. Give it WIFI credentials and it’ll activate windows, download more drivers, updates, all that automatically. Just bear with it as it’s setting itself up. If there’s any issues, let me know, but I don’t suspect we’ll have any.

Then, go into the c:\INSTALL FILES folder and there’s a couple things to do….

1. Right click the MS Office script and run as administrator to activate that.
(Note, if Windows10 doesn’t activate, go into the c:\INSTALL FILES\Office2019 folder and find the script for activation. Right click and run as admin. But I’m not sure you’ll need to do this.)

2. ACTIVATE DELPHI, use the files in the Delphi folder, and check out this video:

(Note: where he says c:\v1da resources, it’s C:\INSTALL FILES on your system.)


First, start Delphi, click through the arrows, click start, hit yes. Then save “FileActivation.xml” file somewhere you can find it (Delphi folder is good.)

(DO NOT OVERWRITE the “activation” file that’s in the Delphi keygen folder.)

Then open the KG activation program (as admin), and then click the “Activate FileActivation.xml” button, and select the file you saved.

It will light up green. A pop up may show up to some forum, X it. Ignore it. This pop-up may show up twice.

Then go back to Delphi, click start, now select No and choose the file you just saved and activated.

Wait a moment, Delphi will load/activate, and start up. Give it 30 seconds or so.

You’ll never have to do that again, unless you change laptops.

And that’s it!

Here is a video that shows the process too (thanks Matt!):

Below are instructions for V1DA 2014D (V1DA ALL-IN-ONE).

V1DA 2015 instructions can be found online on V0lv0’s bookstore website. As that program requires a license fee to use.

VDash instructions are acquired through the program, as you register yourself they will provide that. VDash is free to register an account, so you’ll set one up for yourself.

HaynesPro is ready to use, double-click, fire it up and poke around.

Autocom Delphi, once activated (sorry, this one constantly needs to be activated anytime anything on the system changes, it’s annoying), is good for a ton of makes and models, as a basic scanner. Including 85% of European models. THIS IS NOT VIDA-RELATED AT ALL. You can skip this if you don’t have a Delphi cable. This program is just a bonus to make the system more useful for you and other cars that might be in your family.

(Delphi cable is called: VCI for delphis PRO ds150e 2016)

Vol-FCR 1.3 and 1.7.6 (for 1995-1998 models)…. instructions and driver for these are in the c:\INSTALL FILES folder.

(Vol-FCR cable is called: Vagcom with FTDI KKL 409.1)

EWD (electric wiring diagrams, for V1DA 2014D) can be accessed through V1DA all-in-one, or by using the shortcut on the desktop.

Excel, Word, Edge, Chrome, Teamviewer, everything else…. is free to use, and should be good to go, use them like a normal computer. Let me know if you run into any snags.

You can use this wifi, the web browsers, install and download anything you want…. and you should be just fine, and not conflict with the other programs. But… i’d still recommend you try to just keep as is, to keep it working.

When finished, just shutdown the computer like normal, pull the drive out of the USB port, and stash away. When you turn on the laptop again, it should automatically use the internal hard drive, if the USB isn’t connected.


V1DA 2014D:

Here is a basic guide to getting into V1DA 2014D, getting to a scan, getting to the info piece, and how to clear the car’s codes.

If this is the first time your car has been scanned, or at least in a while, I’d briefly look at the codes, and then delete them, not worry about them too much yet, and scan again after a few drive cycles. Sometimes codes can show up intermittently, and not be a problem. So you want to clear them and let them re-show themselves, to be sure you really have an issue. (Additionally, when looking at the codes that are in there, if it’s a red light next to it that means it’s a consistent error. Likely a completely dead part. If it’s yellow or orange, it’s intermittent. Could have been moisture or a rough bump, or low battery charge or something that threw the code, clear it and see if it returns.)

I am by no means an expert in actually using V1DA, but this should get you started enough to figure it out. If you have questions, feel free to ask me, I’ll try my best to help.

If you sourced your DICE unit yourself, and if it came with a disc (CD/DVD), don’t do anything with it. In fact, you can toss in the trash. It’s usually corrupted files anyway, and no use. I leave all the install files, as backups, on the drive (c:\INSTALL FILES folder), and we’ll use that in the event you ever have issues (and I will provide the instructions in the event that happens.)

Note: Mongoose cable really isn’t much different than a DICE. If you’re using a Mongoose cable, just interchange the word DICE for Mongoose as you read the instructions.


1. Wait until V1DA logo in the taskbar (bottom right) has a little green “play arrow” and not the red square. The V1DA logo is gray and looks like a white V with the colored indicator over it.
2. Double-click the desktop icon “V1DA All-In-One”.
3. On V1DA’s welcome screen, type in “2”, then click OK. (alternatively: you can use “admin” but then you’ll need to change the partner group to AME yourself, from INT… using “2” does it automatically.)

(Note: your DICE unit will power on when connected to the car’s OBD2 port…. plug that in first, it lights up, then plug in the USB into the computer. It’ll detect it like any other device.)
(Also Note: If you’re just looking for the info, at this point you can manually enter all your car’s info and still get into the INFO section. If you were just investigating/searching for info. on a certain repair or feature, or looking for diagnostic tips.)

1. Click Define Vehicle Profile (or click the “Vehicle Profile” tab).
2. Change partner group to AME if it’s not already changed.
3. Connect the DICE cable to your car’s OBD II port. Some or all of the lights on the DICE unit should now light up and be blinking.
4. Turn the car’s key to position II on the ignition. Don’t turn on the car.
5. Insert the DICE cable’s USB cable into your computer.
6. Choose the appropriate drop-down option for your DICE device (vxDiag unit; use VXDIAG, or Dice-J2534 on some cables out there– Dice unit; use Dice-206751 — Mongoose; use Mongoose JLR) and then click “Read Vehicle”.
7. Wait for Vehicle information to appear. The vehicle’s VIN number will be displayed along with a photograph of the model to which V1DA is connected.
8. Select Transmission type.
9. Select Steeering type. This step is important. In many cases, the “Diagnostics” tab is greyed out and disabled until Transmission type and Steering type are selected.
10. Select Body Style (S.R. means “sunroof”, w/o means “without”)
11. Click OK
12. You can now click on the Information tab, to get into the info part of the program. This is area of the program that you can browse through all the details of your car.

(You can now disconnect the DICE from the car, and look through the info., or keep connected and run a scan. In the future, if you just want to look through the info, you can select your car’s profile, with all the info attached to the VIN saved, except you still have to select transmission type, steering, and w/ sunroof or not, and never even have to connect to the car.)


12. Click the Diagnostics tab.
13. Wait for V1DA to retrieve information from the vehicle (the screen will display messages such a “Verifying VIN” and “Reading Diagnostics Trouble Codes”).
14. Click Fault Trace.
15. Click Delivery.
16. Review DTC codes listed on the Delivery tab.
17. Once in Fault Trace, you will see a “Vehicle Communication Tab”, this is where most of the programmable/calibration/testing cycles are.

BE AWARE, WHEN DICE IS OPERATING, YOU ARE USING THE CAR’S BATTERY, DON’T GO TOO LONG, OR YOU’LL DRAIN THE BATTERY.  But, with that said, lots of V0lv0 techs use V1DA with the car running. It doesn’t seem to matter. ALSO…. it’s totally normal for the ABS light to start blinking after connected for a few minutes. It won’t show up when you’re finished.

TO CLEAR THE DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes):

1. Follow the preceding procedure to read/scan the DTC for the vehicle.
2. On the Delivery tab, you may have to scroll down (far right, on the bottom half of the screen), then click ERASE ALL.

Lastly… don’t forget there is a very useful SEARCH tool. Just select “everything but parts catalog” and type in what you’re looking for. It’s a life-saver sometimes.